Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.78

My Hobby/Scale Modeling Limitation/Frustration:

"VS WHO???"

I've stated before that "I wish I could read the Japanese Language". It would make many of my Japanese Models' history, themes, purpose and instructions so much easier to understand. So, as an English speaking person only, and an amateur modeler; I'll state that "I'm certainly not an expert on the thousands of Japanese models that have been created/designed for Anime, Gundam, the thousands of other characters, or sci-fi/space ships".

I mention the above, because I have completed, and will be tackling many more Japanese models that are totally in Japanese - I don't know anything about them, or very little. Presently, I have not found a Japanese speaking friend in my area ...which would probably help a lot!

Luckily, Japanese instructions, like their model quality, are excellent. Instructions are usually better than those supplied to assemble that home barbecue or computer desk.

I will however include some web reference when I find it. If it is incorrect - I apologize - email me (right-hand column) and educate me! I do take the time to do research on every model ...I'm learning as I do!

With almost 50 years of art and design experience I will tell you why (why I created something the way I did), and how (the methods I use to end up with my satisfied [hopefully] results).

As a retired old artist dude; I'm having fun applying my 2D painting talents to the world of 3D models. It keeps my artistic passion alive. I hope that you also enjoy, and learn from my attempts.

...back to finishing this Xxxxxx Spacecraft!

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.77

An Easy Customizable Display Base

The above Wooden Boxes are sold at Art Supply Stores. They are sold as a fine art painting alternative to buying framed canvas boards. They could be stained, screened or painted on directly - example: for a more hand-crafted look, or that olde look. I'm sure there are many creative applications that they could be used for. They come in sizes, approximately) from 3 x 4 inches up to 24 x 36 inches (some sizes are square). The top ply wood surface is 3/16 inch thick and the solid wood side frame is minus 1/2 inch thick (15/32 inch). All surfaces including the inside are supplied super smooth ready for any application. Prices start at around $3.

Use as a Model Base:

As the boxes are reasonable enough, and as mentioned can be finished many ways, they make excellent sturdy model bases. With the boxes being hollow, you could drill and hide a model's support securing threaded rod/bolts below. The top and edge can be paint, textured, or stained finished in many different ways. You could even add a decor moulding around for your design display. A custom plexi/glass display cover could be fitted over also.

I'm looking forwards to customizing some bases!

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.76

Keeping my 'On-Desk' Model Supplies Organized

I was using this old 3 inch high computer platform with an interior sliding keyboard tray. But now my computer station has changed. I also switched to a large Wacom Drawing Tablet last month.

So I found a good use for it. It now holds my most used modeling tools and paints.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.75

LOWRIDER
-My Lowrider Bicycle Model

With my love of bicycle design, an appreciation of different styles and trends of art and design, and being a collector, I became aware of what I call various kinds of 'street LA or California' culture design. Among these design trends was the customization and creation called Lowrider Bicycles. Most of us have seen videos of those lowered custom automobiles (ex: a1961 Chevy convertible) that bounces up and down with hydraulics; but you may not be aware of Lowrider Bikes.

So before I discuss my Lowrider Bicycle Model, here is information from wikipedia encyclopedia (I've added some photos):

A lowrider bicycle is a highly customized bike with stylings inspired by lowrider cars.
These bikes often feature a long, curved banana seat with a sissy bar and very tall upward-swept handlebars known as apehangers. Excessive chrome, overspoked wheels and velvet are common accessories to these custom bicycles. Lowrider bicycles use as many as 144 brightly chromed spokes per wheel.

1960's Schwinn Sting-Ray

Lowrider bikes first appeared in the 1960s in America. It was started by 'Custom King' Sean Johnson who customized automobiles. Kids would copy his work on their bikes usually using common muscle bicycles, allowing those who were too young to drive a car to have a custom vehicle.

Schwinn was the first company to launch a muscle bike in the form of the Sting-Ray.
Sean Johnson was the first to customize the Sting-Ray and had them featured in the Munsters. Eddie Munster's bike was the must have item of the time.

1960's CCM and Raleigh Banana Seat Bikes in my collection

Some make bicycles are particularly popular among lowrider builders. Most well known of these are the American-produced Schwinn Stingray (usually 20", but 16" and even 12" Schwinn tigers are used) and in Australia the Malvern Star long frame dragsters and bratz beutie bikes. Another favorite of the period was the Iverson Dragstripper, which featured a long "exhaust pipe" body that gave it a distinctive look.

A New Custom Lowrider Beach Cruiser Bicycle

The new lowrider trend is also related to the trend in Cruiser or Beach Cruiser style bikes. Today, pre-built and even custom made one of a kind lowriders are available from Lowrider bicycle shops, Custom Chopper Bicycle Designers and even some Lowrider car workshops.

Lowrider Bicycle from BicycleDesigner.com

Some basic or classic characteristics of a lowrider bike are: Baby Daytons (like the car rims, they are overspoked and do not cross over each other) with white-wall tyres. Banana Seats, usually custom upholstery and a customized sissy bar. Ape or Schwinn type handlebars. Old school spring action suspension for the front forks known as "springer forks". Fenders both front and back. Sometimes a chain steering wheel is attached. Most accessories are highly polished chrome, however gold is also used for added flare though for economical reasons chrome is the standard.

A Custom Designed Lowrider Tricycle

Some lowrider bikes are modified into lowrider tricycles, allowing them to sit much closer to the ground while still being rideable, to hop without falling over if they have air bag or hydraulic suspension and given them extra carry space in the back. The space between the two rear wheels is often used to mount either a 2-seater "love seat", a "boom-box" or even pumps for hydraulic or air "suspension".

Some custom modifications include twisted forks, spokes or handlebars, what are known as "bird cages" (twisted metal strips that resemble a bird cage) that are cut and welded onto handlebars, sissy bars or pedals. Many of the bikes also feature custom frame work such as tanks and skirts which are the addition of sheets of metal, usually welded on, to the frame to give it a "filled-in" look. Some lowrider bicycles even have air or hydraulic cylinders set-up to emulate the Height adjustable suspension of lowrider motor cars.

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My Lowrider Bicycle Model:

This is Hoppin Hydro's Lowrider Show Street Cruiser Item #5000 a 1/6 scale Lowrider Bike Model Kit.

The bike is 11 1/2 inches long. It is advertised as "the first and best lowrider bike model kit in the world with a 2009 price of $ 22.99 US.

You can build it one of two ways, street cruiser (basic lowrider with chainguard) or a radical show version (customize it with supplied panels which includes two graphic decal options, and textures for the banana seat).

Skill level is III. It is a good looking model but I'm afraid I swore (*#!@+) a lot while making the bike (not my Forte!) I found the illustrated instructions are well drawn, but important details are missing for assembling key parts the correct way (step-by-step). I had problems with the rear wheel, chain and foot petal components, even though I have several real bicycles in my possession. Most plastic parts are chrome plated which requires exact scraping away of the chrome areas, so that glue will adhere to the surfaces. The plastic seemed very weak in structure to me - delicate - small plastic parts broke easily. In general my model looks good, but I had to repair/make new holding parts to complete it. I would find re-making of this kit a second time - much easier.

Before assembly:

The bicycle's frame and design panels are supplied as raw black plastic. I cleaned them with fine wet sandpaper, primed them with White Acrylic Primer, and then sprayed a coat of Burgundy-Red Acrylic ...to match my chosen burgundy/red/blue decals.

The bicycles tires are real rubber which fit over the pre-chromed and finished wheels. Most other parts are pre-chromed plastic. A kick-stand is supplied.

Rubber inserts are supplied for the foot pedals. I left the bicycle chain off, as I damaged it badly!

The banana seat is black plastic. I finished this in Matte Black Acrylic. When dried, I applied a wet coating of Clear Matte Varnish on the seat's top and then sprinkled the supplied velvet textured material.

I added the handlebar multi-colored streamers. I made them by stripping a little rubber/plastic of different colored large paperclips.

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To get you into the Lowrider Culture 'Street LA/California' here are some cool links:

Hoppin Hydros Flash Intro: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/locsters/introflash.swf Hoppin Hydros Online Hobby Store: http://locsters.stores.yahoo.net/modelkits1.html

http://www.lillocsters.com/

Lowrider Bicycles - Bike Tech, Features, Events, Models, Forums: http://www.lowriderbike.com/index.html

Bicycle Designer - Custom Bicycles and Parts:http://www.bicycledesigner.com/

Lovely Lowrider - Custom Bicycles and Parts: http://www.lovelylowrider.com/

Aztlan Lowrider Bicycles: http://www.aztlanbicycle.com/

Dave Gonzales is the graphic artist behind the HOMIES. He has been doing art about Chicano life and lowrider culture for over 20 years.

HOMIES: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homies
HOMIES - The Official Site: http://www.homies.tv/
HOMIES Art Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBEoXPLmcOo&feature=player_embedded http://www.hoodhounds.com/hounds.html http://www.hoodrascals.com/


OG ABEL LA Artist/Designer - UntouchAbel Collection: http://ogabel.com/flashcatalog/abel-catalog-09.html

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.74

Gundam MOBILE ARMOR Normal Type
by BANDAI, Japan 1:550 scale No.30
0008671-300 1993

*Click a photo to enlarge



Box Top & Instruction Sheet

This is a cute little Gundam ship about 3 1/2 inches long x 4 inch wingspan. It is a stubby spacecraft with a bug-like shell covering that has slots for movable weapon/gun barrels. It must be fast because it's all engine! Note that its' landing wheels are a skii type.

The model includes a 1 1/4 inch tall Gundam Warrior that you can stand by the ship with his shield and gun or hook him to the ship's projectile rod ...which is what I chose to do. I hope he won't get burned feet from those massive engines, or get struck by lightning!

The above illustration also shows small round little things flying in space around the vehicle ...I have no idea what they are or their purpose? One is shown in the above photo ...10 are included with the model. At first, because they were so small, I thought they were runway lights! Those 'little thingies' are shown in the image below - bottom right.

I scanned the above page of illustrations from a Gundam Mechanics reference book that I have. Always wishing I read Japanese! Note the vehicle is labeled as the MAN-08.

Finishing my model:

The ship was assembled; except for the bug-like canopy cover which I attached on completion.

After priming and finishing, I sprayed the model and canopy shield cover using Tamiya Color for Plastics TS-60 Pearl Green. This color is very thin. Apply using one or two passes only and let it dry before building it up to a solid coverage. I used it like a regular spray can - it bubbled and I had to strip it and start over #!@*...this is the way we learn!

Mithril Silver was hand painted for the guns, front intake vents, rear engine area, skii wheel parts, and the front window sunray pattern. Yellow was added to the front window pattern also.

Tin Bitz and Black Ink were used to dirty the rear engine areas.

The little Gundam Warrior was finished in a complimentary color of Burgundy Red with Mithril Silver accents. His boots and other details were added in Black. His head eye visor was finished in Fluorescent Orange Liquitex Acrylic. His shield was painted using a mix of Mithril Silver and the ship's Pearl Green. Black and Yellow were also applied to the shield.

The ten 'little thingies' were painted using the Burgundy and Pearl Green. The front tip was finished in the Fluorescent Orange.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.73

Update: "Super Dimensional Fortress"

In my blog Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.70, under model components (item no.7), I mentioned that I had lost, but then found the "Super Dimensional Fortress" spacecraft ship (aka SDF-1 Macross). In this blog I will share the completion of this spacecraft ship; and include a similar model, in 'attack mode' by IMAI - the "Macross SDF-1 Storm Attacker - Construction" model.

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The "Super Dimensional Fortress" - by ARII
part of the System Fortress South Ataria Island diorama:

The spacecraft ship was easily assembled, with only patience required, in assembling all the small guns. Researching ahead of time for web photos of the item helps in understanding what is what. Example: Model box top illustrations can be quite different than the original artist or anime created ships. I used the above illustration (also shown in my blog No.70) as a guide for colors. Personally, I feel that an artist doesn't have to make it identical to someone else's rendering - if it doesn't feel or look right - zap (pimp) it up a bit ...change it!

Once the model was assembled and cleaned up, I spray finished it with Plastic White Primer and then a Deep Navy Blue coat using Rust-oleum Paint for Plastic. Rather than use stark white, I chose a light grey (Fortress Grey) to hand paint the light areas on the ship. I masked the rear banding and painted it White, then covered it with Bright Yellow. Most of the ship's guns were detailed in Mithril Silver. I highlighted some mechanical areas and the ship's control tower in Bolt Gunmetal Silver. The model is 6 inches long x 3" high on the supplied stand mount. I finished the stand in White. A couple of small decals were applied before a clear coating protection.

The rear exhaust areas were dirtied using Bolt Gunmetal mixed with a touch of Black Ink.

Red lines were hand painted on the arm runway. Arms have a swing movability.

Red Gore was used on the underside ship arms. Shadow Gray (blue/gray) was used for window areas.


The above ship is part of the System Fortress South Ataria Island diorama that I blogged about in Blurp No.70. My island diorama is fully detailed with system warriors and Valkyrie ships, leaving no room for the above spacecraft ship. It came with a stand to mount it in flight position. I decided to use and display it with the other ship, which is in 'standing attack mode' (which I discuss below) .

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Macross SDF-1 Storm Attacker - Construction
by IMAI Macross No.10

The above rending showed two color versions. As I had completed the flight version System Fortress in the middle-darker range, I decided to start this model with White. The parts and assembly was a little different for this model also- as you'll see by the photos. It also has more movability in it's arm and weapon joints ...it is in its' movable attack mode.

I primed and base painted the partially assembled model in White. I left the arms and large weapon parts (shown below) un-assembled - easier to paint. Model Master's Acrylic 'Dark Ghost Gray' (A medium neutral grey) was chosen for body parts along with the White. The arm runway was left White with Red lines. Yellow leg banding was complete like the previous model. Chainmail Silver was used for all guns and mechanical and highlighted with Boltgun Metal. Small warning type lights were hand painted with Liquitex Fluorescent Orange Acrylic. Five small decals were added - leftover from a Warhammer model.

Movable top weapons shown above and below.

Rear view shown above.

Front view - arms extended. Feet type pads also rotate slightly. This model is also 6 inches high x 4 to 5" wide depending on its' arm outreach distance.

I will be creating a display base to feature both of the above System Fortress models.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.72

LOST TV Series is Coming Back in February 2010:

Today, ABC announced the premiere date of the sixth and final season of LOST. It will return on February 2, 2010 with a special all evening event.

The night will begin with a recap episode from 8 to 9PM, followed by a two hour premiere episode at 9PM.

Later the following week the last regular shows will be on Tuesdays at 9PM on ABC.


I mentioned the LOST series in a former blog, Surf - Design Planet No.20.

Lost's Timeline:
On May 7, 2007, ABC Entertainment President Stephen McPherson announced that Lost will end during the 2009–2010 season with a "highly anticipated and shocking finale.
"We felt that this was the only way to give Lost a proper creative conclusion," McPherson said. Beginning with the 2007–2008 television season, the final 48 episodes would have been aired as three seasons with 16 episodes each, with Lost concluding in its sixth season. Due to the writers' strike, the fourth season featured 14 episodes, and Season 5 had 17 episodes. Season 6 was planned to have 17 episodes, too. However, on June 29 it was announced that the final season will feature an additional hour, making the number of episodes 18.

Executive producers Lindelof and Cuse stated that they "always envisioned Lost as a show with a beginning, middle, and end," and that by announcing when the show would end that viewers would "have the security of knowing that the story will play out as we've intended." Lindelof and Cuse stated that securing the 2010 series-end date "was immensely liberating" and helped the series rediscover its focus. Lindelof noted, "We're no longer stalling." The producers also plan to wrap up long-standing mysteries, such as the nature of the smoke monster, the four-toed statue of Taweret, the identity of the Adam & Eve skeletons from the season one episode "House of the Rising Sun",and the reason the DHARMA periodic resupply drops continue after the purge. Matthew Fox stated in a recent interview that in the final season, the characters of Jack Shephard and John Locke "will come head to head." A third of the way through the final season, the two time lines will be "solidified into one" and "will be very linear – no more flashbacks, nothing." He has also claimed to be the only cast member who knows the ending of the series.

Cuse has stated that both the time travel and flash-forward seasons are over, and they're moving into something different for the sixth season.

A personal note:
Even though the LOST series has had me, and many others, scratching our heads, season after season, I have really enjoyed this wacky, way-out show. I've especially enjoyed the acting of most characters in this show. Maybe it's because of spending a few years in Hawaii ...I recognize many film locations, and I had seen a couple of the show's actors on Oahu.

I anxiously awaiting the final series ...a definite sticky note on my fridge!

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.71

Every year on November 11th, I like to remember soldiers and others from all countries who have fallen fighting for freedom, peace and righteousness; and those brave soldiers whom are presently serving. My mom's father fought in the First World War as a British soldier, and my father fought in the Second World War as a Canadian soldier. Luckily, both came home to their families, but they both would never be the person they were.

Canadian soldiers attend a Remembrance Day ceremony in Afghanistan. (CBC)

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Remembrance Day:

Across Canada and around the world, people were attending remembrance ceremonies Wednesday to remember those who have fallen serving in their armed forces.

The day marks the anniversary of the end of hostilities in the First World War, which ended at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918.

In Ottawa this morning, Prince Charles and Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall, will attend a ceremony with Prime Minister Stephen Harper and Gov. Gen. Michaëlle Jean at the National War Memorial in Confederation Square. Thousands of people have shown up for the remembrance.

This year's Silver Cross mother is Della Marie Morley, whose son, Cpl. Keith Morley, was killed in Afghanistan in 2006 in a suicide bombing. Morley said she was proud to represent the mothers and families of Canadian soldiers who have given their lives. "I would like you to think of my son and the young men and women that have given their lives in Afghanistan, but as well as the other wars. I grew up with Remembrance Day a very big part of our lives because my grandparents were part of World War I," Morley told CBC News. "There are some of Keith's friends in Afghanistan right now, so we also need to think of the people that are over there now doing their job."

More than 100,000 Canadians soldiers have died in various conflicts since 1899, including:

* More than 240 in the Boer War.
* More than 66,000 in the First World War.
* More than 44,000 in the Second World War.
* 516 in the Korean War.
* 121 in peacekeeping missions.
* 133 in Afghanistan.

More than 600,000 Canadian soldiers volunteered to go overseas for the Great War. In addition to those who died, 172,000 were wounded.

Only one Canadian veteran from the First World War is still alive — John Babcock, 109, who was born on an Ontario farm and lives in the United States.

Link to CBC's complete story:
http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2009/11/11/remembrance-ceremonies.html

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Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.70

Approximately two months have flown by since my last blog on my model projects. I am presently working on several. I just finished another Island Diorama. It was fun ...hope you enjoy it also! Comments are always welcome!

SYSTEM FORTRESS - SOUTH ATARIA ISLAND

-28 MACROSS SERIES
-an ARII Plastic Model - No.5 Kit No. AR-571-2800

Quite a while ago I hand painted the plastic mould island base for Gerry Anderson's Thunderbirds Secret Base diorama ...which I blogged about in Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.13. At that time, I also painted the island for the above System Fortress South Ataria which is shown in the above box top illustration. Below is my painted island base.

Well, I finally had time to work on, and complete, the rest of this diorama island model. I would like to suggest that before you continue on in this blog, that you first visit Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.21. In my Blurp No. 21, about a quarter of the way down in the blog, is where I first began writing about this model. After you have looked at No.21, just use your back button to return to here.

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Inside of the model's box with various components and base shown above.

Unfinished model parts shown above.

Over a period of three weeks I primed, sprayed, and hand painted all of the model's parts and figures.

The model included:

1. A quantity of twenty four 1" high people figures.

Notes: As the island is small in relation to all the parts supplied I decided to use only 8 of the figures. The others I will use for another Macross model. These figures were all painted alike for a uniform appearance using Games Workshop figure acrylic paints.

2. Four standing Valkyrie fighter warriors.

Notes: These were primed white and sprayed with a white acrylic plastic paint. Then I hand painted each figure in its own color combination.

3. Two Valkyrie ship/plane figures in standing position were supplied, along with two Valkyrie ship/plane figures in flying mode.

Notes: I decided to paint all of the above four Valkyrie fighters in a similar paint scheme. The painting process was the same as the other four figures in 2.

4. Decals for the above figures 2. & 3.

Notes: Decals were not used for any parts. As this was a 1980's model, the supplied decals had all become very brittle with age ...they would not apply at all.

5. Two landing pods with ramp doors - supplied with a spring mechanism for launching small land/water/flight vehicles.

Notes: I sprayed the pods with a "Rust-oleum Metallic" Bronze paint. This is a new spray paint that works well, and is available in different bronze, gold and silver. Games Workshop colors, "Tin Bitz", "Boltgun Metal" and "Mirthrol Silver", were used to texture and accent parts.

6. The Valkyrie's Weapons

Notes: I used Games Workshop's "Boltgun Metal" and a Copper Metallic paints.

7. The model's instruction sheet pages also showed the assembly instructions for a Super Dimensional Fortress (aka the SDF-1 Macross) (drawing above and illustration rendering at the top of this blog).

Notes:The above model that I put together here did not include this ship. When I purchased it quite a while ago, the box had been opened. It is possible that the sprue containing this ship was missing. If someone out there also has this model, maybe you can email me (left blog column) and let me know if your model included the S.D. Fortress. I do have another similar looking model. The "IMAI No.3 Macross SDF-1 Storm Attacker Construction" that I will assemble at a later date.

(Update Nov.14: I found the Dimensional Fortress. It was in a box with other Macross models. When I assemble it, I will let you know in a future blog.)

8. Other Model Finishing Notes:

I used Woodland Scenics "Lichen and a green Bush" for a touch of island planting.
Liquitex Acrylic Med. Viscosity - "Fluorescent Orange" was used for various part lighting.
Games Workshop's "Shadow Grey" (a blue grey) was used for Valkyrie cockpit canopies and as an accent color.
Black was used sparingly were required and thinned with matte medium to dirty up some parts (to make something look used or worn).
Games Workshop's "Tin Bitz" was used to accent the Valkyries rear power exhaust areas (its butt).
Games Workshop's "Varnish" and Hyplar Acrylics "Matte Medium" were used to seal all color throughout.

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Completing the South Ataria Island Base:

For a solid surface to mount the hand painted plastic mould base I chose a piece of 1/4" thick white hardboard. I followed the island's shape and drew a pencil line around, about 3/4" from the island base. I cut this shape out on my scroll saw. This would be the ocean around the island. I first painted the hardboard's top edge all around using Liquitex Acrylic's "Real Teal" and "Bright Aqua Green". When dry I mounted the island by drilling two holes at each end and inserting the correct length screw. The screws were later concealed with foliage. I detailed the water by applying some ripples and using white for shoreline wave action. All was coated with gloss acrylic medium to protect and give the water depth.

Mounting and fastening of the components and figures to the Island Base:

As my diorama is not being used as a toy, but rather as an interesting Anime display, I took time to plan where each figure, Valkyrie, and other parts would look their best (tell a story) and give the model good placement composition and interest. Clear plastic rod was used to suspend the Valkyries in flight.


Images of my completed SYSTEM FORTRESS - SOUTH ATARIA ISLAND

Reference Sources:
http://fanfiction.net/s/660155/1/The_Legend_of_Megaroad
http://www.animationunlimited.com/index.php?itemid=68
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Super_Dimension_Fortress_Macross
http://www.collectiondx.com/node/3650

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.69

GIANT ROBO 1
SR (Super Robot Series No.3) by SKYNET

This Giant Robo model figure is from Japan. It is based on the original Giant Robo character by Tokusatsu. I do not know a lot about this character. All the model directions are in Japanese. Plus there is not a great deal of reference on the internet. I did find some reference links: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_Robo_(tokusatsu) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_Robo

A good tip: If you want to keep a model's instruction sheet(s) in mint condition, just photocopy them. It will save you getting upset when your paint or glue drips on them. Also you can make notes or highlight where you left off on the copy. Originals can be kept in binders in hole-punched archival plastic sleeves.

This robot figure is fairly easy to assemble - head, arms, legs, hands and body. It comes with extra poss able arms and hands - missile firing fingers, punching fist etc. What does take time to assemble is those little metal half-round rivets. Yes! ..that's right, you have to glue each one on to the metal sleeve cuffs on the hand, legs and the body. I actually assembled, all the parts shown above a couple of years ago when I lived in Honolulu. Recently, I sanded and filled any mold joints and then primed and paint finished the parts in White.

Ok, you are asking 'why there are watch parts in the image above'. Well, I don't know? The figure came with this time watch. It is also shown in the above model instruction sheet. Maybe someone out there knows why?

Above is shown some other images I found for referencing colors.

I found the above image of a similar GR-2 model, and it seems that many older character animation(s) are always being updated in form, videos and cartoons, both in Japan and the US. I don't know why a cute girl with a surfboard is present, but she has the right initials on her board!

Here are a couple more helpful links re Giant Robo: http://gr-anime.com/english/about_introduction.html
http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=giant+robo&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGGL_en_____250&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=DSSsSqWZHIvssQPgxtj8BA&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&ct=title&resnum=16#

The robot colors that I used are: white, and hand-painted silver (metal), red, blue and yellow.

I also used two copper/brass colors for the watch mechanical parts. Citadel Paints were used throughout. Some simple color area decals were supplied - but I decided not to use them.

Note in the above photo, that I used a Silver for the face, and a darker Gunmetal Silver for his neck. Two Silvers were also used on the shoes also. The Gunmetal Silver was used for the flying tanks on his back. The red line grooves on his Egyptian style head helmet were badly mold formed - not very straight - this made it difficult to get a clean red/white line appearance.

On completion of the figure, I decided to mount/display him on a small wood base that I had. I primed it with White Gesso, lightly sanded it, and then sprayed it with a Silver Hammered decorative, textured finish. These little wood bases are available at hobby and dollar stores usually. I glued his shoes to the board with Super Glue. The rest of his arms, legs etc. just fit into each other making the robot's parts movable, if wanted.

At this point, it looked great, but I didn't know what to do with the extra hands and arms. I wanted a display model, and I didn't want the parts to get lost. Although, I must admit, I have misplaced the watch lens, so I haven't put it together yet. Where are you???

I decided to make a wall behind the figure to hold the parts. Sort of like the extra parts or weapons you would see on a wall in a Batman movie. In my basket of recycled parts I had a metal grid panel from an old music computer speaker face. I also had some brass colored coffee bag clips. So I fastened them, in the position needed to hold the arms etc., using some old computer bolts to the metal grid. I had to drill holes carefully for the bolts. A nut was applied to the back side. The completed grid and the clip hardware was all sprayed silver.

The arm and hand holding rack was secured with a base screw at the back. Later, when I find the watch clear lens (I hope), I will then display it on the front left side to complete this robot figure display - maybe threading the watch band around his left leg.


Gee ...I hope my Lab didn't eat it! ...Leila